What is stitching in the ditch? That takes a little explanation. When quilters sew together a quilt top’s blocks, sections, and borders, they typically press the seam allowances to one side after stitching. The side with the seam allowances underneath is three layers of fabric thick, compared to one layer of fabric on the other side. This makes a little “ditch” that runs along the surface of the quilt next to each seam line, providing a built-in stitch guide. The popular term for machine quilting along those seam lines is “stitching in the ditch.”
Stitching in the ditch is the easiest way to machine quilt, because no marking or advance planning is necessary. Your seams provide all the guidance you need. With a little practice, you can tuck your stitches into the ditch so invisibly that most people will never even notice them.
Many quilters like to stitch in the ditch to secure the quilt’s layers before doing any free motion machine stitching. This makes it possible to remove any pins or hand stitches you used to baste the quilt, leaving an open field for your decorative machine quilting.
When is Stitching in the Ditch Enough for Your Quilt?
In many cases, when the seams on the quilt top are well distributed across the whole surface of the quilt, stitching in the ditch is all the quilting you really need to do. You can add more quilting for decoration, but it’s not needed to hold the quilt together. Just check the manufacturer’s guidelines for the batting you are using to make sure your quilting lines are close enough together to help the quilt hold its shape through use and repeated washing.
For quilts with large open areas or wide borders, you will need to supplement your ditch stitching with more quilting in the open areas.
How to Stitch in the Ditch: Step by Step Instructions
Preparing for machine quilting starts when you assemble the quilt top. Here’s how to stitch in the ditch successfully:
- As you assemble the quilt top, press all seams to one side. Don’t press the seams open, so the seam allowances lie flat on each side of the seam. See the photos at the bottom of the page for an example of seams pressed open and pressed to the side. Usually quilters press the seam allowance to the side of the seam with darker fabric. This keeps a dark seam allowance from showing through a paler fabric on the quilt’s top. I recommend doing this unless the pattern you are using tells you to press the seams in a specific direction. In that case, follow the pattern’s instructions.
- Square up and baste the quilt before starting to machine quilt.
- Choose your machine quilting thread. For quilts that will see regular use, use strong polyester or cotton thread that will wear well over time. I generally use medium weight (size 50) all-purpose or machine quilting thread. Most quilters like to choose a color that won’t be visible when the quilting is done. A thread color slightly darker than the fabric will look unobtrusive. If you’re quilting over many different fabrics, try a neutral color like medium grey or beige that will blend in with most of the fabrics. For wall or art quilts that won't get as much use, you could also use an invisible polyester monofilament thread.
- Choose a sewing machine needle. Do this after you’ve picked the thread you will use, so you can match the needle to the thread. In general, I stitch in the ditch with a size 75/11 or 90/14 quilting, denim, or topstitch sewing machine needle.
- Use your sewing machine’s walking foot. A walking foot feeds all three of the quilt’s layers evenly under the presser foot. Without a feeding device, the quilt backing and the top fabrics can get out of alignment and cause puckers. The photo at the bottom of the page shows a walking foot.
- Use a stitch-in-the-ditch presser foot. This specialty presser foot has a guide that sticks out in front and runs along the seam line to make it easier to see that your stitches are going right in the ditch. If you will do much quilting, it's worth investing in a stitch-in-the-ditch foot. See an example in the photo at the bottom.
- Stitch on the low side of the seam. The goal is to tuck the machine quilting under the little fold caused by the extra layers of seam allowance at the seam lines. With practice, you can get really good at this and hide your stitches so they’re almost invisible.
- Work from the center of the quilt outward. Stitching the center seams first lets you smooth any wrinkles or puckers out toward the quilt's edges as you go.
- Stitch along major seam lines and around applique elements. The more seams you secure, the better anchored the quilt layers will be. But you don't have to stitch every single seam line, especially if your quilt has blocks with lots of tiny pieces. Stitching around applique elements helps give them a three-dimensional feeling.
When you've finished stitching in the ditch, your quilt is ready for decorative machine quilting or for binding and finishing.
Christine Mann - Christine Mann writes about quilting, home decor sewing, and creativity in daily life.
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